im sure Billy will post a video when he has it complete but for now this might help...it's for 2 fog lights
so just copy the same schematic for more sets of lights.
Another thing to keep in mind, is that it helps to keep the high watt positive (hot) line running from the relay (87) to the headlamps (or other high current drawing application) as short as possible.
DC current (what our cars run on) suffer more from "line voltage drop" than ac current does. (the longer the wire the less available amperage you have unless you upgrade to a larger guage wire)
If you place the relays up close to the lights, and keep that wire short, you a) will have the brightest lights possible and b) reduce the risk of a high amperage short, or generating excess heat from drawing too much current over a longer lenght of wire. (the heat is generated from running too small of a guage of wire for a particular application, but
the longer the wire, the heavier the wire needs to be, a shorter wire can be a smaller guage.
On my car I have a bank of 6 relays right up in the nose of the car for the lights and other things. (I have each pair of lights on it's own relay). I am able to run a very small guage wire from the switches in the dash (switch pods) to the relays. The high current wire going from the battery to the relays to the lights themselves runs through a 30 amp circut breaker.
(also the picture doesn't say so specifically, but you will need to make sure the positive wire running from your fuse box to the light switch is fused, some of the terminals comming from the factory fuse box aren't fused. If you should get a short on an unfused wire.... you will cause some meltage at the least.... a fire at the worst)
I think my car in total has about 40 12 volt relays in it that opperates different things. (and at the time it had the scanning light bar opperated on a relay driven HPI, it had 8 more) Clicky clicky!
I would like to be as good as my dogs think I am.