KentuckyKITT's Season 1/2 Replica

A place to share updates and photos of your replica builds!
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Location: NC

Re: KentuckyKITT's Season 1/2 Replica

Postby luvKITT » Tue Mar 21, 2017 2:41 pm

Looking awesome...you will have one nice KITT for sure.
Julie

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Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2012 6:31 pm

Re: KentuckyKITT's Season 1/2 Replica

Postby KentuckyKITT » Fri Mar 31, 2017 5:53 pm

So, I got some goodies in the mail a few days ago:

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I simply cannot comprehend all of the features these electronics can do! Reading about these is boggling my mind. After seeing them demonstrated in person at Southern Knights last year, I knew it was the set for me! The #1 thing that sold me on these is real-time, real value engine monitoring of which no one else has ever done before. Paid for them last Friday, got them Tuesday! Can't get much faster than that! 4 days!

A big thanks to Alessandro of ZA, what a great guy, very helpful and a real pleasure to do business with!
The quality of these is top-notch and the cabling connections are a real treat!

I wish I could get these installed before the Indiana event, but it's not happening. After the Indiana event, I will begin the install in May.

Posts: 182
Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2012 8:18 pm
Location: NC

Re: KentuckyKITT's Season 1/2 Replica

Postby luvKITT » Fri Mar 31, 2017 7:55 pm

Wow nice congrats! Those are the best Electronics out there and the fastest ones to get to you too. Have a fun and safe trip to Joes event, I won't be there unfortunately.
Julie

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Re: KentuckyKITT's Season 1/2 Replica

Postby Pac-Man » Thu Jun 01, 2017 7:01 am

I Can't wait until you get those electronics all fired up and working! Definitely the best out there!
"No one ever suggested that what we do is easy. Nothing worthwhile ever is." - Devon Miles

Project: K.I.T.T.
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The Ultimate Knight Rider Map

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Re: KentuckyKITT's Season 1/2 Replica

Postby KentuckyKITT » Fri Aug 11, 2017 6:22 pm

Time for a long overdue update. So, I decided to install my a/c delete box a couple months ago while the engine was down with 6 destroyed lifters. This is a fiberglass box that I really liked the shape and style of.

A/C box and components removed:

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Test fitting the new box:

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Cutting out for the blower resistor and blower motor hose:

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It took me a bit to find something suitable to bond to the fiberglass to accept the blower motor hose since the box didn't come with anything. After some looking around, I re-purposed one of my air cleaner vent tubes that I was no longer using since my valve covers don't have holes in them. I sawed off a section and bonded it to the fiberglass, sealing it from the inside to prevent air leaks.

Prepped and painted, ready for install:

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Gasket applied:

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Installed and I re-routed the large harness under the box, relocated the relay on the side of the passenger fender under the hood hinge and tidied up all the wiring:

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I had this bolt hole left over from the a/c box, so I got a little creative with one my knight head pins from Nick Nugent and bonded it over the bolt hole to give the engine bay a small touch of Knight Rider.

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The nice thing about this box is that it allowed me to use my existing a/c blower motor/fan & wiring. Pretty easy project really! I've got to do some touch up on my engine bay paint as it has suffered over the years.

Next big project will be the ZA electronics in October!

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Re: KentuckyKITT's Season 1/2 Replica

Postby KentuckyKITT » Tue Dec 19, 2017 6:27 pm

The dash electronics install is underway. I've made lots of progress and my visions have turned out rather nicely.

First up was to remove the dash from the car and remove the switchpod, tvs and all of the plastic overlays.

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I had originally epoxied hardwood blocks to the dash just to hold the lightweight plastic overlays with the intention of removing the blocks in favor of metal brackets, however as it turns out the wood blocks are permanent and would not come off with prying or twisting with channel locks, so they were reused, which turned out to same me a ton of time anyway for securing the bottom of all of the overlays. For the top, this dash has a pretty solid and deep fill of fiberglass. So, I simply drilled and tapped deep holes and expoxied threaded studs into the fiberglass and secured with nuts. The electonics from ZA come with spacers and screws which attach to the overlay itself, so the hardest part is simply mounting the overlays.

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Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2012 6:31 pm

Re: KentuckyKITT's Season 1/2 Replica

Postby KentuckyKITT » Tue Dec 19, 2017 6:39 pm

I did have to attach metal brackets to secure the 3-rows and PANP template is attached to the small wood blocks that were already there.

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All electronics installed and secured to the overlays:

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I did have to trim the aluminum overlays on each side of the steering column for clearance and I thought I would have to trim the circuit board some, however after contacting Alessandro FIRST, I found out there is no way to trim the circuit board without damaging it as the circuitry within runs to the edges. I could not slide my overlay/board any farther over without it hiding some of the readout. So, next up was test fitting the dash and luckily, the board clears by 1/8", just enough. The steering column goes down at an angle and misses the board just enough.

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Some front views and countdown and voicebox installed:

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Re: KentuckyKITT's Season 1/2 Replica

Postby KentuckyKITT » Tue Dec 19, 2017 6:53 pm

And so the wiring begins. Of course the wiring between the boards is simple plug and play.

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This picture is the 15-way molex connector I'm using to connect the instrument cluster and external speaker to the dash.

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More wiring:
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I removed the instrument cluster and brought it in to prepare for soldering.

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Soldering begins, testing each connection with a meter:

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Soldering finished. The two cables from the instrument cluster will then be cut and connector spliced in.

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On a side note, since my car's factory computer has long been removed, I had to re-ground the VSS so that I could use it for my speedo input. The computer originally grounded the VSS. After getting out my trusty 82 service manual, I was able to locate the connection and solder a new wire to it that will be ran to ground later.

Posts: 74
Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2012 6:31 pm

Re: KentuckyKITT's Season 1/2 Replica

Postby KentuckyKITT » Tue Dec 19, 2017 7:06 pm

On to the PANPs. I was originally going to solder these connections, but I happened across some connectors that are 7/64" and they fit the terminals of the PANPs perfectly. This does two things, first it makes wiring easier, but the real benefit is if a switch ever goes bad or a bulb burns out, it will be a breeze to remove a switch without removing the dash from the car and having to de-solder anything.

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And for the last connection to the dash is the main power and ground. I decided to use a battery disconnect here for simplicity. Also, the electronics come with a polarity protection board. On the other side of the disconnect (in the car) is a 3 amp fuse. I ran a 12ga main feed straight to the battery, bypassing all of my car's factory wiring. The main is fused at the battery also. This same main feeds the overhead console and lower console. Therefore, none of my car's factory wiring is tapped into for power and ground. With this setup, the dash will install with two connectors total. One for cluster, one for power and ground. Everything is on one main switch mounted in the factory dash panel rather than using the ignition or some other source.

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Posts: 74
Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2012 6:31 pm

Re: KentuckyKITT's Season 1/2 Replica

Postby KentuckyKITT » Tue Dec 19, 2017 7:14 pm

Here I'm finishing up all of the basic wiring, double and triple checking my connections and preparing for a power test only, no cluster yet.


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In the midst of all this, I also epoxied some black plastic mesh screen over the defroster openings to hide the unsightly and off-centered factory defroster grilles in the dash which has always bugged me.


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